Metolius Fat Cam 2

Review Date
December 27, 2002

Overall Rating
 5 of 5

Value Rating
 4 of 5

Reviewed by: Caged_Alpinist(Unregistered User) ,  Climber , from Fayetteville, Arkansas, United

Price Paid:  $55.00 at Lewis & Clark Outfit

Summary:
These cams are bomber for any type of soft rock. In the south, we climb on a lot of limestone and sandstone. In some areas, you can look into the crack and see the grooves where pro has pulled right through the rock. This is not the case with the Metolius fat cams. They are more stable, place quicker, and hold more bomber than any other cam I have used. I have never had any of the trigger wire problems described in another review.

Customer Service:
Metolius customer service is great. They have been helpful every time I have needed anything.

Similar Products Used:
Other cams include: Black Diamond, Aliens, Wild Country

Review Date
September 8, 2002

Overall Rating
 1 of 5

Value Rating
 1 of 5

Reviewed by: David (Unregistered User) ,  Climber

Price Paid:  $100.00 at Mountain Designs

Summary:
In common with other Metolius cams I have used, these have a pretty nasty flaw in their trigger system. The trigger wires shift and warp during placement, causing the cam to either release (at one extreme), or fail to return the cam lobes to their original location (more usual, and very annoying to fix), bending the cam return springs in the process. The accompanied maintenance means the wires don't last very long. I've seen one set last no more than a single season - very disappointing. I will not be purchasing Metolius in future as a result.

Customer Service:
Disappointing

Similar Products Used:
BD - excellent; HB - good triggers; WC - solid, reliable.

Review Date
January 12, 2000

Overall Rating
 5 of 5

Value Rating
 5 of 5

Reviewed by: Marcus Garcia(Unregistered User) ,  Mountaineer , from Fort Worht,Tx. USA

Summary:
I have used these wonderful fat cams on a trade limestone route in Mexico. I was involved with the first ascent two years earlier but did not use them then. This year we went back and use a whole rack of fat cams during a filming expedition. The cams help ease the fear most climbers have about placing gear in a limestone crack as opposed to the standard FCU. Thier wider surface area have unstopable holding power .They held tightly in the soft cracks, stoping falls with little worry. We have also used this cams now to establish new routes keeping to the traditional styles. These are a must for anyone ventureing to the limestone cracks of Mexico as well as the desert cracks of the west. This cams will help climbers push thier limits beyod what they can belive.

Customer Service:
Metolius is a company for the climbers. They are always there to answer any question are give any information.

Similar Products Used:
Black Diamond cams
Alliens

Review Date
January 12, 2000

Overall Rating
 5 of 5

Value Rating
 5 of 5

Reviewed by: Rex Pieper(Unregistered User) ,  Climber , from Los Angeles

Summary:
If you climb in areas with sandstone these are the cams for you. In the soft desert sandstone, normal cams can pull out under the load generated by a leader fall, leaving tracks scarred into the rock. These cams remedy that problem by not only being placed quite far apart, but also close to doubling the width of the cam's contact area with the rock. While primarily designed for use in the parallel cracks of Canyonlands, the larger cams work quite well in any type of rock. The smaller ones are a bit harder to make the crossover since often, narrow granite cracks are shallower and thus more suited to traditional cam designs. All in all, great cams by a great company.