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SMC Snow Anchor Ice Protection Review

SMC Snow Anchor


Description
Aluminum anchor with steel cable for belay protection on glacier climbs and as a snow stake for tents in severely windy conditions. Main part is shaped like a shovel blade coming to a point at one end, with a 1/8" stainless steel cable running from the other end. Bury the blade in the snow, clip a carabiner to the cable and run a rope through it for a belay on steep snow.
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Review Date
May 6, 2003

Overall Rating
 1 of 5

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 1 of 5

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Reviewed by: Craig Butler ,  Mountaineer , from Bellingham, WA, USA

Summary:
For the last several years a local mountaineering group has experimented with the SMC Fluke vs the DMM Deadman in a variety of snow conditions at the Mount Baker Ski area while teaching snow anchors to budding alpinists.

The results of the SMC fluke are not impressive. Most of the time the flukes would fail. We consider they are aptly named and that it is a fluke if they hold.

Conversely, the DMM deadman performs quite well. Most of the time a deadman will set solid. I would trust a DMM deadman for an anchor. I would not trust a fluke.


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Reviews 1 - 1 (1 Reviews Total)

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