Reviewed by: STW(Unregistered User)
,
Mountaineer
, from Boston, MA USA Summary: I've tried lot of different boots over the years, and so far, these are the best yet for me. I only used these for the second half of the winter of 2000-2001, but I'm extremely happy with them. I used them for standard ice cragging, and some alpine couloirs with long approaches and walk-offs. The fit is great. They are insulated for colder conditions; but they're not so warm that you'd really suffer on a spring day. They are great for front pointing - excellent stiffness in the sole and high support around the ankles. But they also allow decent french technique (better than a plastic boot, anyway...). Very comfortable, no trace of shin-bight or walking pain. Then again, I pretty much only walked on snowy paths in them. Not a lot of miles on dry paths or rock yet. They've got a nice rocker which helps with the walking part of the equation; and it helps them fit some of the newest high-tech crampons (I used a pair of the new grivel rambocomps with them for the second half of this winter - fantastic!!). The toe and forefoot width is not too clunky, so they feel quite point-able for both ice rock climbing. Better than many other full-bore mountain boots that I've worn. The (sticky?) rubber rand goes pretty much all the way around the toe and heel. An obvious thing, you'd think, but some boots don't. I can't think of a single negative thing to say about these boots. If they fit your feet, you'll be a happy ice climber in them. Customer Service: No issues. No need to contact them. They seem totally bombproof so far. Scarpa's reputation is pretty good though from what I've heard. Similar Products Used: Plastic boots - I've used Koflachs and Asolos. Both were fine. Warm and waterproof. I'll hang on to them for especially cold days. Leather - I've used Salomon Super Mtn 9 Guides (super stiff - ice climb well, but very painful for my feet - narrow with a tiny toe box; plastic rand skates off rock climbing toe holds). La Sportivas (also nice climbing performance, but agony for my feet). Scarpa Freney - great alpine boot, but not enough support for long days of frontpointing (which is what I like to do); not tall enough, not stiff enough; totally flat sole (no rocker) so wearing crampons that have a bit of rocker designed into them is problematic. Freney's maybe too specialized for a generalist like me.
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